First fad. History of the development of Fed cameras. Post-war production of FED cameras

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Continuing the topic of rangefinder cameras, I decided to talk about my best friend. This is a 5V FED camera. Favorite heavy brick hanging on a thin woman’s neck.

Credits: fish300

“Felix Edmundovich Dzerzhinsky” is a Soviet rangefinder camera. Produced from 1975 to 1990. Modification of the camera "FED-3". The standard lens is “Industar-61 L/D” 2.8/53, coated. There is no photo exposure meter. Rewinding film with a tape measure. There is a mechanism for diopter correction of the viewfinder (within + / – 2 diopters). Pure mechanics.

The metal body inspires confidence in the reliability of the device, it is pleasant and simple. I got my hands on it a year and a half ago from a classmate. This is my first camera, first experiments on film, first experiments, first love.

Credits: gotoarizona

The camera is really simple! There is no exposure meter on it, and before this I had never encountered manual setting. I looked at the exposure meter table a couple of times, this turned out to be quite enough. All the first shots turned out surprisingly well. Maybe it’s magic, and the camera itself corrected the parameters, I don’t know. But I lived without an exposure meter for two years and I’m going to continue to live like this. This is at the level of sensations.

You can photograph absolutely everything with it, use any films and any chips with films. The classic use of the camera is, of course, landscapes:

Credits: gotoarizona

I honestly admit that for the first six months I did not know at all how to use the rangefinder focusing method. I either didn’t understand the articles about this, or didn’t want to understand: I posted it at random, and for 2 months I was happy with the pictures, which were almost always in focus. Then a streak of failures began... One film, a second, a third. All the frames were unclear, except for those filmed at infinity. I couldn't understand what was going on. I re-read the articles and figured out the focus. I took the camera to a friend, and he was quick to upset me by saying that the rangefinder was broken and no longer working. I walked around in sadness for no more than three days, since moving the pin back and forth for two hours solved the problem, and in the future the FED no longer let me down.

Let's get back to the review. In addition to landscapes, you can also shoot excellent portraits with the FED, if you open the aperture wide, for example, and focus accurately, the background will be blurred no worse than any SLR camera. I also like to highlight faces a little. Then the portraits look softer and, perhaps, a little kinder, lighter:

Credits: gotoarizona

Black and white film. I tried this on this camera only a couple of times. I'm not a fan of black and white, but I'm not saying it's bad, I just need color now. I have a whole story about the first black and white film, but I’ll just show you the photos:

Credits: gotoarizona

Redscale. I've tried it many times on this camera. I never came across ready-made film; it was always made from ordinary negatives. The FED, like other similar cameras, copes with such films “excellently”. And why? Because by opening/closing the aperture, you can completely control the light and, therefore, the hue of the redscale. All you have to do is choose the film and the “hole” you need and you will have a peach, bright yellow or crimson color:

Credits: gotoarizona

Cross process. A favorite technique of most Lomographers, it is not the easiest to perform on cameras such as FED. In general, everything is simple if you have an exposure meter or your eye has been trained for years to determine the illumination correctly. The slide does not tolerate errors, this is true, but if you expose the film correctly, and even shoot in the sun, you can get very rich colors and wonderful contrast:

Credits: gotoarizona

Multiple exposure. Unfortunately, there is no such built-in function, but that’s okay. You can always reload the film you shot and get unexpected results. Although I like it better when you layer one frame at a time. The FED 5V model has a convenient tape measure; it is enough to make one turn back until there is a barely audible click and cock the shutter again. So you always have a choice whether to do multiple exposures or not.

Contrary to all of the above, experts claim that the progenitor of the legendary “FED” is not a “Leica” at all, but another Soviet-made camera, which was created long before the German model. This camera was called "Cyclops". Its developer was Korneliy Yevtushenko, an engineer at the Kharkov Optical Society. Yevtushenko first presented “Cyclops” back in 1906. They say that the model enjoyed incredible success even abroad, where German specialists could use it and design their own Leica camera based on the Cyclops.

In 1913, a talented engineer improved his invention. The Cyclop Lux model acquired a built-in optical viewfinder and gained the ability to change lenses. Several cameras were even purchased by members of the family of Emperor Nicholas II. However, the well-established production of domestic photographic equipment was hindered by revolution and war.

1. Purpose

The camera is intended for amateur photographers and photojournalists.
The FED camera is a modern and advanced camera that works on normal film.
The camera can be used to take pictures of landscapes, portraits, group shots, individual sports moments, etc.

2. Main technical characteristics of the camera

1. Picture format 24×36 mm.
2. Number of shots 36 with film length 1.6 m.
3. Curtain shutter.
a) shutter exposure: 1/20: 1/30; 1/40: 1/60; 1/100; 1/200; 1/500 and 1/1000.
4. Lens "Industar-22" with coated "Blue" optics:
mm.
b) aperture ratio 1:3.5.
c) aperture 3.5; 4; 5.6; 8; 11 and 16.
d) distance scale in meters 1; 1.25; 1.5; 1.75; 2; 2.5; 3; 4; 5; 7; 10; 20 and infinity ∞.
5. Optical viewfinder for lenses with focal length 50 mm.
6. Optical rangefinder with base 38 mm, interlocked with the lens focusing mechanism.
7. The camera has an interlocked film feed with a winding mechanism and a frame counter.
8. The camera is equipped with a film rewind mechanism, which will make it possible to recharge the device in normal, but not too bright, light.
9. Camera size: width 135 mm, height 70 mm mm .
10. Camera weight 580 gr.

3. The design of the camera and the rules for handling its parts during operation

Rice. 1

1. Winding crown
Rotate the head only in the direction of the arrow until it stops. When the device is wound up, the film is automatically fed for one shot, while the curtain shutter is wound up and the counter runs.
2. Counter dial for shots taken.
3. Protrusions for setting the dial scale to “0” after charging the device. The limb is connected to adjacent parts by friction. Rotate only against the arrow indicated on the head “1”,
4. Arrow indicating the number of pictures taken.
5. The release button has a safety nut, which can be replaced with an adapter sleeve (supplied with each device) for cable operation.
6. Mechanism switch. To rewind the film back into the cassette, turn the switch in the direction of the arrow towards the letter “B”.
7. Exposure speed dial.
Set the exposure value only with the mechanism running. You should lift the dial slightly, after which you can rotate it and set the required exposure value. Rotation of the disk is possible only within the scale of 20, 30, 40, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1000 and back.
The dial cannot be turned in the range between 2-1000.
The numbers on the dial scale indicate fractions of a second, the letter makes it possible to obtain exposure according to the time the shutter release button is pressed.
8. Arrow indicator for setting the required exposure value.
9. Terminal for installing special devices for the FED camera (optical viewfinder for lenses with other focal lengths, frame viewfinder, self-timer, etc.).
10. Optical viewfinder lens.
11. Optical rangefinder windows.
12. Film rewind head.
When rewinding, lift the head and rotate in the direction of the arrow.
13. The lower removable cover has a lock and a threaded socket to secure the device on a tripod.
14. Pin fixing the bottom cover.
15. Ring for installing lenses on the device.
16. Distance scale.
17. Lens adjustment guide for sharpness. In the extreme position, with the pointer pointing to ∞, the leash is latched. To turn the lens out and set it for sharpness, remove the arm from its extreme position by releasing the lock by pressing the button.
18. Limit pin.
19. Limb with a depth of field scale (“limits of sharpness”).
20. Lens tube.
To bring the lens into the working position, you need to pull it forward by the front ring 22 as far as it will go, then turn it clockwise until it fits tightly into the grooves of the bayonet.
To remove the lens into the camera, you need to do the opposite.
21. Engine with aperture scale indicator.

Rice. 2

22. Front lens ring with aperture scale. The scale indicates the relative apertures of the lens.
23. Lock on the bottom cover (not visible, see figure).

4. How to open the camera

Take the camera as shown in Fig. . Lift the lock shackle 23 and turn it counterclockwise half a turn so that the lock arrow points to the “Open” sign.
The internal arrangement of the cassette and take-up reel for the captured film can be seen from the figure.

Rice. 3

The cassette lies freely in the device and is easy to pull out by the head “A”.
The reel for the captured film must sit in the device with tension on the spring axis and can be pulled out by the head “B”.

5. Cassette and charging it

The cassette (Fig.) consists of three parts: a clip, a reel and a cover. The cassette must be disassembled before charging, for which take it as shown in Fig. , and lightly tap the spool head against something hard.

Rice. 5

Subsequent charging operations should be carried out either in red light or in complete darkness, depending on the type of film.
Cut the end of the film and secure it in the reel under the spring “K”, as shown in Fig. . Pay attention to the careful bend of the film; press down the bent end with your fingernail. The film layer should be facing inward, towards the axis of the coil. Wind the film tightly onto the reel. It is absolutely unacceptable to compact the winding by holding the reel and tightening the film by the free end, in which case the turns rub against each other strongly and scratches will inevitably form on the layer. You should not touch the surface of the layer and even the back side with your fingers, both when charging the cassette and when working with the film; It is necessary to hold the films only by the perforated edges.

Rice. 6

Rice. 7

Place the film package with the reel into the holder (Fig. ) and put on the lid. Further operations with the cassette can be performed outside a dark room.

Rice. 8

6. Charging the camera

1. Remove reel “B” from the film from the device (Fig. ).
2. Pull out the end of the film from the cassette with a length of no more than 10 cm, cut it carefully to the shape (Fig.) or using a special template.

Rice. 9

3. Take the coil “B” in your left hand, and the charged cassette in your right hand and, as shown in Fig. , strengthen the end of the film under the spring “K” of the reel. Make sure that the uncut side of the film is pressed tightly against the spool flange.

Rice. 10

4. Place the open camera with the lens facing away from you (Fig. ). Holding cassette "A" with your right hand and spool "B" with your left, insert the film into slot "C", lowering them evenly into the slots. If the cassette does not reach the place, then turn the rewind knob 11 (in Fig. ).

Rice. eleven

5. Put on the bottom cover 13 (Fig.), press it tightly and turn the lock shackle 23 clockwise half a turn. The lock arrow will point to "Locked". Check if the cover is closed.
6. Wind up the mechanism twice, pressing the release button 5 after each winding, while observing whether the mechanism pulls the film correctly and whether the film rewind head 2 rotates.
If the head does not rotate, you should check that the device is charging correctly with film.
7. Set counter 2 scale to “0” against pointer 4.

7. Shooting with a camera

When operating the camera, adhere to the following order:
1. Install the lens.
2. Set the required aperture.
3, Start the mechanism.
4. Set the desired exposure.
5. Set the lens to sharpness, observing through the eyepiece “D” of the rangefinder (Fig. ).

Rice. 12

6. Point the viewfinder at the object being photographed, observing through eyepiece “B” (Fig. ).

Rice. 13. Correct horizontal position of the device

Shoot by gently pressing the shutter release button. When shooting, do not forget the main thing on which success depends:
a) unconditionally stable position of the apparatus. Therefore, when shooting handheld, do not overuse the aperture, shoot at low exposures and carefully study the pictures with the correct and incorrect position of the device during shooting.

Rice. 14. Correct vertical position of the device

Rice. 15. Incorrect horizontal position of the device

Rice. 16. Incorrect vertical position of the device

B) Right choice aperture and exposure values
For this purpose best way use an objective exposure meter or exposure meters in the form of rulers.

8. Discharging the camera

1. Press shutter button 5. (The lens must be closed with a cap).
2. Move the mechanism switch 6 to “B”.
3. Pull out the film rewind knob 12 (Fig. and ) and rotate it in the direction of the arrow. You can detect the end of the rewind by the force that will be required to tear the film out of the reel, and also because the protective nut 5 will stop rotating.
4. Open the device as instructed earlier.
5. Remove the cassette and store it until developed.

Rice. 17

6. Turn the mechanism switch 6 counter-arrow to its original position and turn the head of the winding mechanism 1, after which the device can be charged again.

9. Using an optical rangefinder with distance and depth of field scales

1. Hold the device as shown in Fig. and, through the left viewing eye “D” (Fig. 12), point at the object you are going to shoot.

2. With the lens in the ∞ position, objects that are not at infinity, almost closer than 100 meters, will have a split image.
In this case, press the leash button.
Having disengaged the leash, turn the lens with it, observing with your eye the images of the object in the central (reddish) field of the rangefinder (Fig.).
The images will get closer together. Continue turning the leash 17 until the images are completely aligned.
In this position, the lens will be focused, and on the distance scale 16 opposite the dial hole 19 there will be a number corresponding to the distance from the film to the subject being photographed.

3. If the distance to the subject being photographed is known exactly, you can install the lens without using a rangefinder, but directly set the dial hole 19 against the scale number corresponding to the distance from the film to the subject being photographed.
4. In cases where it is necessary to photograph objects with significant depth, or a number of objects located at different distances, it is necessary to take into account the depth of field scale 19 when choosing a value for the aperture.
In this case, it is necessary to clearly know that depth of field does not mean the absolute and uniform sharpness of the image within the specified boundaries, but there is a limit beyond which the blurriness goes beyond the conventionally accepted tolerances (for a depth scale of 19, this limit is taken in the form of a circle of dispersion with a diameter of 0.04 mm).
From scale 19 the main position is clearly visible - the smaller the aperture opening, the more depth sharpness, the less important focusing is.

Example: the device is aimed at 4 meters with an aperture of 16, the sharpness limit is from 2.5 m to 10 m;
,25 m up to 5.25 m;
at aperture 3.5 the sharpness limit is from 3.65 m up to 4.5 m.

10. Developing the removed film

The film is developed in a commercially available plastic tank. The tank consists of 4 parts (Fig.).

Rice. 19
1. Tank. 2. Cover and detachable spool in two parts. 3. Lower disc with spiral and 4. Upper smooth disc

To charge the tank, separate the upper disk of the reel, insert the end of the film into the cutout of the upper disk with the emulsion facing out, then connect both halves of the reel together. The protrusion on the lower disc bushing should fit into the cutout of the upper disc bushing and pinch the end of the film.
After securing the film, wind it onto the spool, rotating the latter counterclockwise, while tilting the film slightly so that it fits into the grooves of the spiral. Place the film spool in the tank and close the lid. After this, the process of development and fixation can take place in normal, but not too bright light.

When manifesting, the following must be strictly observed:
1. So that the tank is thoroughly washed.
2. The developer temperature was monitored and taken into account.
3. The developer recipe and film grade were checked.
4. After developing the film for the time recommended by the development recipe, without opening the tank, pour out the developer, rinse the tank with the film in 2-3 waters and then fill it with fixer.
5. When developing and fixing, rotate the coil in the tank according to the arrow indicated on the lid.
6. After fixing, rinse the film with water for at least 10 minutes, changing the water five to six times.

11. Enlargement from film

Prints from the negative are made primarily by projection, i.e. using a U-2 enlarger (commercially available), resulting in large format photographic positives.

12. Rules for handling coated lenses

1. The coated surfaces of the lenses have thin films of magnesium fluoride or cryolite. A thin film in reflected light gives the coated surfaces a lilac tint.
2. The film of magnesium fluoride or cryolite is softer than glass, and this must be kept in mind when handling coated surfaces.
3. Brushing off dust with a brush is acceptable.
4. Non-greasy dirt can be removed by lightly wiping with a clean flannel cloth or chamois leather.
5. Dirt from grease (fingerprints, etc.) can be removed by wiping without pressure with a flannel cloth moistened with anhydrous alcohol or ether.
6. Moisture has an unfavorable effect on coated surfaces and can completely ruin the antireflective film over time.
7. In order to preserve the antireflective film, it is necessary to protect the antireflective surfaces from contamination so that the need for cleaning arises less often.

12. Camera kit

The camera kit consists of:
1. Camera with “Industar-22” lens.
2. Camera take-up reel.
3. Adapter sleeve for the release cable.
4. Safety nut on the release button bushing.
5. Lens cover.
6. Cassette.
7. Leather case with shoulder strap.
8. Description of the FED camera.
9. Passport.

13. Camera accessories

The following accessories are manufactured for the FED camera:
1. Release cable.
2. Light yellow filter.
3. Yellow filter.
4. Orange filter.
5. Case for filters.
6. Spare cassette.
7. Universal photographic tripod.
8. Template for cutting the film.
9. Magnifier for viewing films 6 x.
10. Magnifier U-2.

These accessories are not included with the camera and can be purchased separately from the camera.
The FED camera, in addition to the Industar-22 lens described above, can also be equipped with lenses with a high aperture ratio ZK-50 1:2; ZK-50 1:1.5 (see appendices and).
Each camera produced with one of the three specified lenses is adjusted only to the lens with which it is equipped. If it is necessary to install another lens into the camera, you must remember that the camera should be re-aligned to the lens being newly installed in it.

Appendix No. 1

The camera is equipped with a ZK-50/2 lens

a) Lens focal length 50 mm.
b) Aperture ratio 1:2
c) Aperture: 2; 2.8; 4; 5.6; 8; eleven; 16 and 22.
d) Distance scale in meters: 1; 1.2; 1.5; 1.7; 2; 2.5; 3; 4; 5; 7; 10; 20 and infinity "∞".

2. Dimensions and weight of the camera with the ZK-50/2 lens.
a) Width 135 mm, height 70 mm and length at working position 70 mm.
b) Weight 590 grams.

3. Lens structure and handling rules during operation.

Rice. 20

1. Distance scale.
2. The procedure for setting the lens for sharpness.
In the extreme position, with the ∞ pointer, the leash is latched. To set the lens for sharpness, remove the arm from its extreme position by releasing the lock by pressing the button.
3. Depth of field scale.
4. Lens tube. To bring the lens into the working position, you need to pull it forward by the knurled ring 7 as far as it will go, then turn it clockwise until it fits tightly into the grooves of the bayonet. To remove the lens into the camera, you need to do the opposite.
5. Aperture scale ring. The relative apertures of the lens are indicated on the ring.
6. Front lens ring.
The ring indicates the characteristics of the lens and the lens number.
7. Knurled ring.
The ring has an index for setting the aperture to different relative lens apertures.

1. Hold the device as shown in Fig. and , through the left viewing eye D fig. point at the subject you are going to shoot. In the middle part of the rangefinder field of view, a reddish transparent circle is visible on a greenish background.

In this case, press the leash button (2) fig. , having disengaged the leash, turn it, observing with your eye the image of the object in the central (reddish) field of the rangefinder, Fig. . The images will get closer together. Continue turning the leash until the images are completely aligned.
In this position, the lens will be focused, and the distance scale bar (1), corresponding to the distance from the film to the object being photographed, will stand opposite the depth of field scale index bar (3).
3. If the distance to the subject being photographed is known, the lens can be adjusted for sharpness without using a rangefinder. To do this, you need to set the stroke of the distance scale (1), corresponding to the distance from the film to the subject being photographed, against the stroke of the depth of field scale index (3) and shoot.
4. In cases where it is necessary to photograph objects with significant depth, or a number of objects located at different distances, it is necessary to take into account the depth of field scale (3) when choosing a value for the aperture. At the same time, you need to know that depth of field does not mean the absolute and uniform sharpness of the image within the specified boundaries, but there is a limit beyond which the blurriness goes beyond the conventionally accepted tolerances.
From scale (3) the main position is clearly visible - the smaller the aperture opening, the greater the depth of field and the less important focusing is.

EXAMPLE: The device is aimed at 4 meters; at aperture 16 the sharpness limit is from 2.2 m to ∞;
at aperture 5.6 the sharpness limit is from 3 m until 6 m;
m up to 4.8 m.

Appendix No. 2

The camera is equipped with a ZK-50/1.5 lens.

1. Basic specifications lens.
a) Lens focal length 50 mm.
b) Aperture ratio 1:1.5
c) Aperture: 1.5; 2; 2.8; 4; 5.6; 8; eleven; 16 and 22.
d) Distance scale in meters: 1; 1.2; 1.5; 1.7; 2; 2.5; 3; 4; 5; 7; 10; 20 and infinity.

2. Dimensions and weight of the camera with the ZK-50/1.5 lens.
a) Width 135 mm, height 70 mm and length 75 mm.
b) Weight 605 grams.

3. Lens structure and handling rules during operation.

Rice. 21.

1. The distance scale with distances in meters marked on it has a knurled collar. The scale turned fully clockwise sets the lens to the ∞ position.
2. Depth of field scale.
3. Aperture scale ring. The relative apertures of the lens are indicated on the ring.
4. Front lens ring. The ring indicates the characteristics of the lens and the lens number.
5. Index ring. The ring has a stroke for setting the aperture to different relative apertures of the lens.

4. Use of an optical rangefinder and distance and depth of field scales.
1. Hold the device as shown in Fig. and , through the left viewing eye D fig. point at the subject you are going to shoot.
In the middle part of the rangefinder field of view, a reddish transparent circle is visible on a greenish background.
2. With the lens in the “∞” position, objects that are not at infinity, almost closer than 100 meters, will have a split image.
In this case, turning the knurled scale (1) Fig. counterclockwise, observe with your eye the image of the object in the central (reddish) field of the rangefinder, Fig. .
The images will get closer together. Continue turning the dial (1) until the image is completely aligned. In this position, the lens will be focused and the stroke of the distance scale (1), corresponding to the distance from the film to the object being photographed, will stand opposite the stroke of the depth of field scale index (2).
3. If the distance to the subject being photographed is known, the lens can be adjusted for sharpness without using a rangefinder.
To do this, you need to set the stroke of the distance scale (1), corresponding to the distance from the film to the subject being photographed, against the stroke of the depth of field scale index (2) and shoot.
4. In cases where it is necessary to photograph objects with significant depth, or a number of objects located at different distances, it is necessary to take into account the depth of field scale (2) when choosing the value for the aperture. At the same time, you need to know that depth of field does not mean absolute and uniform sharpness. images within the specified boundaries, but there is a limit beyond which the blur goes beyond the conventionally accepted tolerances.
From scale (2) the main position is clearly visible - the smaller the aperture opening, the greater the depth of field and the less important focusing is.

EXAMPLE: The device is aimed at 4 meters; at aperture 16 the sharpness limit is from 2.1 m up to 80 m;
at aperture 5.6 the sharpness limit is from 3 m until 6 m;
at aperture 2.8 the sharpness limit is from 3.5 m up to 4.8 m.

Explanation of the presence of bubbles on the objective lenses

Melting special types of optical glass presents significant technical difficulties. It is especially difficult, and for some types of glass, impossible to get rid of air bubbles that form in the thickness of the glass during the melting process. Neither our nor foreign glassmaking techniques have yet mastered methods for eliminating these bubbles in some types of optical glass. For these reasons, you can always notice a certain amount of bubbles in the lenses of complex foreign and Soviet lenses. The bubbles themselves have virtually no effect on the quality of the lenses and the sharpness of the pictures, and, therefore, lenses with bubbles on the lenses are not defective at all.
The only thing we can talk about is some loss of image brightness, since the light is refracted in the bubbles at much larger angles than in the rest of the lens field, and is absorbed by the walls of the camera with the blackened walls of the lens frame, without reaching the light-sensitive film.
Let us calculate the amount of such light loss, which depends on the area of ​​the bubbles. So, for example, if there are five bubbles with a diameter of 0.3 mm each their total area will be equal to:

The area of ​​the effective lens opening with a diameter of about 30 mm is equal to:

So, the area of ​​the bubbles in the process is from the total area:

Of course, such a loss of light has practically no absolutely no meaning.
Now let's try to calculate what the area of ​​the bubbles should be so that the loss of light in the lens is 1%.
For simplicity, let's assume that we have the same 5 bubbles, but of a larger size. Let's assume that the diameter of each bubble will be about 1.431 mm, then their area will be:

We have already determined the area of ​​the effective lens opening:

The area of ​​the bubbles as a percentage of the total area of ​​the active hole will be in this case:

As can be seen from this simple calculation, even with such significant sizes of bubbles, which almost never exist in such quantities in lenses, the loss of light is still so insignificant that in practice it cannot be taken into account.
The widespread opinion that the image of bubbles is obtained on film is completely untrue and is only a consequence of complete illiteracy in elementary issues of optics.

Based on the above, the factory does not take into account consumer complaints regarding bubbly lenses and does not exchange such lenses.

This explanation was already given by the OGPU plant in 1935 in the description of the FOTOCOR 1 camera.

Notes:

Scanning of the original - Yuri Fatyanov.
Passport omitted.
The quality of the illustrations matches the original.

In the original it was: 60 mm, corrected according to the attached sheet with “Necessary corrections”.
The original was: clockwise, corrected according to the attached "Required Corrections" sheet.
Plant named after OGPU - GOMZ, Leningrad. Similar explanations were given at that time by foreign manufacturers of photographic optics.

The first device was released under this brand of the same name. Often consumers called it “FED-1”, but this designation was not officially used. The device was produced from 1934 to 1955.

A little about the camera

The first generation of FED cameras was produced from 1934 to the mid-50s. After that, it was replaced by the FED-2 camera. Under the name of the first generation (without numbering), a large number of different cameras were supplied, which differed from each other in minor details. This device is considered a copy of the Leica II of German origin. The shutter is made of curtains that were previously rubberized. Self-timer and sync contact are not provided.

Modifications

The FED camera was released in several modifications. What are their differences? Various coating technologies were used, inscriptions were made differently and the configurations of parts were changed. Thanks to such diversity, collectors have long had a genuine interest in this model.

Non-serial release

In 1933, 30 cameras were created by hand, which had an attached rangefinder. But these devices never made it into series. At the same time, the “Pioneer” was created at the Leningrad plant - a camera of a similar design.

By mid-spring 1934, a batch of 500 cameras was produced. They were a copy of the Leica II, just like the FED itself. A little later, another similar design called “FAG” was released for sale. The batch consisted of 100 pieces, and production was established in Moscow.

War and release

Initially, the FED camera was produced at the Kharkov plant, but due to the outbreak of war, the documentation was transferred to the Krasnogorsk conveyor belt. Continuation of production was established by 1948.

Sales of the Zorky camera have begun. It was a complete copy of the FED, which was produced in the pre-war period. The first copies were called the same as their predecessors. The only difference was that the factory logo was additionally applied. Until 1949, the combined name “FED 1948 Zorkiy” was used. Starting from the next year, the name was shortened to “Zorky”.

Instead of a conclusion

Many people are interested in how much a FED camera costs. It should be noted that the first model is not very expensive. It is often sold at a negotiated price, leaving the buyer the opportunity to bargain. The average price is about 1 thousand rubles, if you purchase the model on various trading auction sites. The following camera models sell for much more.

If you are interested in the Zorki camera, then feel free to read on. The FED and Zorkiy devices are absolutely identical!

In fact, the FED is not a camera that might be of interest to a collector or even just a photo enthusiast. Of course, like any other camera that has been mass-produced for such a long time, it has a number of small-scale modifications that are valued much higher than their serial counterparts, but now we will talk about the most ordinary camera.

Let's first figure out who made it and when. Such information, although it may be considered redundant and encyclopedic, is in fact very useful, as it allows not only to correlate a thing with its historical period, but also to understand the context of all the engineering decisions that were put into it. In any case, I will try to be as brief as possible in this section.

Story

So, the FED camera was produced in Kharkov (Ukrainian SSR), at the Kharkov Production Machine-Building Association "FED" from 1934 to 1955. Just in case you haven’t read my story about the second generation of these cameras, let me remind you that “FED” stands for “Felix Edmundovich Dzerzhinsky.”

The domestic “FED” is nothing more than a simplified copy of the German “Leica II” camera.

The production of these cameras was initially established at the Kharkov Labor Commune named after. F. Dzerzhinsky, created from former street children through the efforts of the outstanding Soviet teacher Anton Semenovich Makarenko. And he, by the way, is, according to UNESCO, one of the four teachers who determined further development pedagogy in the world.

Many people have probably heard about the Leicas used by photojournalists at the front? In fact, things with photographic equipment were a little more complicated...

To begin with, you should pay attention to the cost. So, by the end of the 30s, it was possible to find German “Leicas” on sale at a price of 2000 rubles for a standard set with an Elmar 50/3.5 lens, at the same time, the domestic “FED” with a FED 50/3.5 lens cost a little more 700 rubles. The difference is obvious, especially if we take into account the fact that the cost of replacement optics for German watering cans could be many times higher than the cost of the camera itself with the Elmar lens.

Thus, several different systems were used at the front and in the rear:
“FED”, “FED-S” (the so-called “Komandirsky”: it was equipped with a high-aperture FED 50/2 lens and had a shutter speed of 1/1000 second), “Leica II model D”, “Leica IIIa model G”, “ Pioneer" (VOOMP), "FAG" (Geodesy). All these cameras were practically indistinguishable in the eyes of non-professionals, which was the reason for the emergence of the generic name “Leika”.

Only a couple of hundred photojournalists of central newspapers could boast of German Leicas and other foreign photographic systems, while the overwhelming number of front-line photographs were taken with FED cameras. By the way, while praising the military exploits of the FED, we should not forget about another, no less outstanding device "Photocor" however, that will be a completely different story...

So what can we say about the history of this camera? It was released at a difficult time and in difficult circumstances. By the beginning of the war, 160,650 cameras of the FED system were produced in the country, which, in the absence of other mass-produced photographic systems, became the main camera of the country not only during the war, but also until the mid-50s.

Well, is it worth looking at this device with contempt? Of course not, because it would be at least cynical. I have already heard more than once that “FED is a pathetic fake of the masterpiece German Leic.” Yes, but so what? I, and many others, will not dispute the achievements of the German photographic industry, just like some of the remaining domestic industry, especially in the pre-war period, but I do not see this as a reason for forgetting the domestic FED photo system. This device, like the T-34 tank (which traces its ancestry to the BT tank, based on the American system of J. W. Christie), having foreign roots, soon became a symbol of resistance and victory.

How much is the famous song by Konstantin Simonov worth?

From Moscow to Brest
There's no place like this
No matter where we wander in the dust.
WITH watering can and with a notepad,
Or even with a machine gun
We went through fire and cold.
<…>

I already wrote above that almost all cameras of that period were called “Leicas”.

Small-scale and non-serial releases:

FED-S (“Komandirsky”) was distinguished, as I wrote above, by a FED-S 2/50 lens, and also had a shutter speed of 1/1000 s.
FED-B ("Generalsky") was equipped with a retarder, which allowed him to work out a shutter speed of 1 s.
FED-V — modification of 1941, according to unverified data, is a copy of the “Leica IIIa model G”
Probably, after the war, a batch was released with the KMZ optic, namely with the Industar-22 3.5/50 mm lens.
In 1933, 30 devices with an attached rangefinder were produced - copies of the Leica I
From 1934 to 1935, the VOOMP Experimental Plant produced about 700 cameras « Pioneer« .
In April 1934, at the Geodesy plant, which produced geodetic equipment, the first sample of a camera, conventionally called « FAH» (“Photographic Apparatus Geodesy”). In fact, it is a copy of the German Leica II with minor structural and design changes. The housing covers are plated with nickel. There is no clamp on the rangefinder cover for fastening devices, because... their use was not intended, and therefore the top panel is made smooth. The outer frame of the viewfinder window is removable. Tube lens (folding) “Leitz Elmar” f=3.5/50 mm. Tessar type with engraving “V.O.O.M.P. Z-d Geodesy". The use of interchangeable optics was not intended. From 1934 to 1935, 300 copies were produced.
VTSWS(Military Topographical Service of the Armed Forces)- a camera based on the Leica II system, manufactured at the Almaz military plant after the war. It differed from the serial “FED” in its bayonet lens mount (equipped with captured German lenses “Carl Zeiss Sonnar” 2/50 or “Carl Zeiss Sonnar” 1.5/50), as well as an expanded set of shutter speeds: (1/20, 1/30, 1 /40, 1/60, 1/100, 1/200, 1/500 s and “B”), finished with natural leather in black or blue. No more than 1000 pieces were produced.

There are also rarer specimens, for example:
“At the photo factory of the Combine named after. F. Dzerzhinsky built a prototype of a new model of the FED camera (see Fig. 1).
A distinctive feature of this model is the connection of the rangefinder to the viewfinder. Instead of two eyepieces available on the camera of the first model, the new model has only one eyepiece, with the help of which focusing and sighting are carried out simultaneously. In the center of the rectangle that encloses the shot frame, a circle is visible that is brighter than the field surrounding it. The image alignment is done in this circle. Thus, while focusing, the photographer can simultaneously monitor the frame being shot, which is especially convenient when shooting moving objects, sports moments, etc.
The benefits of such an improvement are obvious. The new design of the combined viewfinder-rangefinder made it possible to increase the base of the rangefinder, which increases the accuracy of focusing.
According to the manufacturers, assembly and adjustment of the new rangefinder is easier than the rangefinder of the first model.
A significant drawback of the new design is the sensitive loss of visible field brightness, which greatly complicates sighting in poor light conditions.
The new camera model is currently undergoing factory testing, after which the issue of its release will be decided.” “Soviet Photo”, No. 1 for 1940. Fokin Mikhail.

Collectors identify many more devices based on less significant features, which include inscription technology, metal processing method, etc.

Don't rush to laugh! Better read: link.

After the war, the technical documentation was transferred to the Krasnogorsk Mechanical Plant, where the production of these cameras under the Zorkiy brand was soon established.

So we can distinguish three stages:
1. Production under the FED brand with the KMZ emblem applied
2. Production under the brand name FED 1948 Zorkiy
3. Production under the Zorkiy brand

All Zorki cameras have a standardized working distance, which eliminates the need for individual adjustment (as was the case with pre-war FEDs).

Ergonomics:

I will write about the ergonomics of the device in more detail, with a view to novice amateur photographers, so more experienced enthusiasts can skip this section.

So, first you need to understand that this camera does not have any electronic aids. This is both a plus and a minus, since you are not tied to the battery charge (since there are simply none here), but, at the same time, you must be able to set all the settings yourself. The following tables (from instructions dated 1937) can help you in this difficult matter:

And 8 more facts about the FED apparatus:

1. The device has a mount for accessories, but it does not have the ability to connect a flash.
2. There is also no self-timer.
3. Setting shutter speeds is possible only after cocking the shutter.
4. Focusing is done using the rangefinder viewfinder, and the frame is framed through a parallax viewfinder.
5. The camera has a simple frame counter, which should be set to “zero” each time it is reloaded.
6. It is possible to connect a release cable.
7. The camera has a tripod socket.
8. The tube lens is very compact when folded.

Thus, the full photographing cycle has the following algorithm:
1. Cocking the shutter
2. Setting shutter speed and aperture values
3. Focusing by rangefinder
4. Framing a frame through the viewfinder
5. Descent

Moreover, it is worth noting that although FED implies interchangeable optics, this is a rather thankless task, since in addition to the lenses itself, you will also need revolver viewfinders.

Helpful advice:
When purchasing, check for the presence of a take-up reel! It is located inside under the bottom (and only) cover of the camera on the right. This is a black metal tube. Without it, you will not be able to use the camera.

More detailed information can be found here: FED Instructions

Why buy?

FED, at the moment, is more of a collector's camera than a work camera. Zeniths, located in its price category, boast interchangeable optics, focusing through the viewfinder, a trigger mechanism for cocking the shutter, etc. and so on. However, FED has a number of advantages, not all of which I can describe and list.

The main advantage is compactness. A FED with an assembled lens takes up significantly less space than, for example, a Zenit V with a miniature Industar-50-2.
The second advantage is reliability. FED is only afraid of strong humidity (since the curtains can become damp) and cold (since the mechanism will simply freeze in the cold). These “fears” are inherent in many cameras, so the FED is not an unpleasant exception here. Otherwise, it has a fairly unpretentious design.
Despite the fact that a lot of time has passed since the late 40s and more advanced cameras have appeared on the market, for me the FED remains a good unit for leisurely shooting. Believe me, I have worked with many cameras, including the legendary Nikon F4, Nikon F3, Nikon FM2, Yashica Electro, 35 GSN, etc. etc., but not once did I have the desire to get rid of the old FED.

Verdict? I think that you should hold this camera in your hands yourself, and you will see. Technically, this device is outdated (although it is still superior to Smenya) - that’s a fact. Its descendant - FED 2, for example, has a synchro contact, a self-timer, a combined viewfinder with a rangefinder, as well as significantly faster Industars, which, of course, leaves no chance for the old man, but personally to me It's more pleasant to work with the first one.

I understand that this is a rather vague recommendation, so I am ready to answer all your questions without exception.

Examples of photographs (from the family archive):